Stilts, Salt and Shoot outs!
From the Med to the Atlantic
05.07.2018
So, blog 18 it is, and slightly later than anticipated as it's now Thursday - a full 9 days since my last blog! Plenty of material to use then hopefully!
We ended last week's blog in a haze of hayfevery mess, and on our youngest nephew's 4th birthday. The rest of that day was spent trying to stay cool, enjoying a dip in the pool and a lovely video call with the birthday boy and his brother - lovely to see them both, although I am now convinced the eldest (Ben, 6) will be taller than me by the time we see them again at Christmas!
Wednesday was another blue sky scorcher, and I was finally starting to feel a bit better so we cracked the bikes out for a lovely MTB ride around the Chambord Estate. Similar to what we'd done previously but we found a lovely river this time where we sat and watched the wildlife for a bit - the sort of thing I love to do, but never had time to before - on a 2 week holiday it would feel a bit of a waste to sit still for a bit, but actually I think it's quite the reverse. A chance to reconnect in a way. The time was well spent as we saw a lovely heron, plus the unmistakeable blue bullet of a kingfisher, plus something causing quite a stir in the river. Initially we thought maybe an otter, but eventually decided on either a pike or a catfish. Back at camp we spent a quiet afternoon staying cool, but i did manage to snap a lovely bird right on our pitch - think it is probably a Nuthatch, but will stand to be corrected.
Thursday was yet another lovely day (we'd really been lucky with our time in the Loire) but this was our last day, having extended by 1 day to make up for time lost to the nasty pollens, Again, we took the bikes out around the estate, and made for more time by the river. Again we were rewarded, this time with a kingfisher sat right in front of us searching for his lunch - no camera though, so happy memories only this time. Back at camp we set about getting the washing done, loading up the van ready for our early departure the following day. We rounded things off with a final dip in the pool - sad to say goodbye but knowing it was time to move on.
Friday was an earlier start with our first stop at the Auchan supermarket we'd visited the week before. We stocked up on some essentials (and some not so essentials!) and then headed towards the coast. Our destination was the Island of Ile De Re just off the mainland from La Rochelle. We had a brief lunch stop at the Queen Blanche (or St Louis) Bridge which according to the legend dates from Gallo Roman times. Pretty old for sure, and a lovely spot for a sarnie!
The journey took us across some lovely scenery, with field upon field of sunflowers almost (but not quite) ready to burst. The bridge across from the mainland is pretty cool - a bit of a nod to the Severn Bridge but on a bit of a curve - and at €16 it is a fair price! Once onto the island we headed for Sainte-Marie-De-Re where we'd booked a spot in the Huttopia campsite Cote Sauvage as it was practically beachside. We drove onto the site and selected what looked to be a shady spot - it was fairly well scorchio so shade was a good idea! Rusty and Kay had also decided to come over to the island for a few days pre-tour so we wandered to their pitch where we had a lovely few hours catching up over a tipple or 3.....!
Saturday was very hot, and without the sea breeze we had thought we might get! The day was spent in and around camp trying as best we could to stay cool. We did venture down to the beach thinking the Atlantic would be cooling, but no - it was more akin to a lovely warm bath! The area is very well known for oysters and other sea creatures that you can forage yourself (if you know what you are looking for!). Personally, I was bit put off by the 3 giant jellyfish we saw washed up on the beach! Into the evening, it did start to cool a bit and we enjoyed another lovely evening with Rusty and Kay.
Sunday was a bit cooler, and the boys headed off for an island explore. The island is just 30km (19miles) long and has a around 100km of cycle tracks running all around it, much of it car free. Once the boys returned and we'd had some lunch, the four of us set out for a loop riding from Sainte Marie to Rivedoux (the tip of the island), across to La Flotte (a Beau village) where we enjoyed a lovely coffee & crepe stop, and then onto Saint-Martin-De-Re which is largely a walled town. The return journey took in a lovely bakery and we enjoyed an impromptu afternoon tea with bubbles on our return to camp - well we had done a coast to coast, so it had to be celebrated!
Monday was wet and a lot cooler - something we'd been wishing for a few days earlier! The morning was spent tidying around camp and reading. Thankfully after lunch the weather did clear and Jase and I headed off up the coast to Le Bois-En-Re for a lovely ice cream.
Tuesday was back to blue skies and warm temperatures, so we packed a picnic lunch and headed back out on the bikes and headed north. Initially we planned to head for the nature reserves around Ars-En-Re (also another Beau village) and then into the salt pan areas. The whole of the island is well known for salt production, and in this area particularly you can really smell the sulphur and see the little white peaks of salt at the edge of each water section. The area is also a haven for bird life and we managed to see Heron, Little Egret, Terns, Stilts, Fan Tailed Warbler and Marsh Harriers all in the space of a few kilometres. After a lovely lunch stop by the side of one of the colour lakes, we headed for the most northerly point of the island - Les Portes-En-Re - thereby effectively completing an end-to-end! The ride back was windy at times, and we ended the day with 62kms ridden.
After a quick wash and brush up, we hooked back up with Rusty and Kay and into the local village for a meal out - they were heading off the following day, so we wanted to have a farewell meal (albeit we'll be seeing them in a few days for Le Tour!). We'd spotted a nice place on our ride out earlier, and as soon as we got there, Jase popped his head in the door to see if we could get a table - it looked the sort of place that hadn't seen a rush for many a year, but how wrong we were! We did get a table, but if we hadn't asked when we did, then no chance! Anyway, we enjoyed a lovely meal - pizzas for most, Jase had a bucket of moules which he loved, and then some stunning crepes & profiteroles for pud. Fab!
Now, those keen eyes amongst you will have noticed that this was Tuesday, and England were playing Colombia in the last 16 of the World Cup. It wasn't without a plan that we went out instead, just to save some of the stress! However, on our return to camp, we swung by the TV room where we were 1-0 up, only to conceded in the final minute or so! I've never felt so far from home as hearing all the other nations around us cheering for a goal against England. Of course, we then had to endure the extra time and penalties - although our neighbours all went a bit quiet towards the end!
Wednesday was a bright day, and we gave our farewell wishes to Rusty and Kay as they headed back towards the mainland. Feeling a bit tired from our ride the day before we decided to have an easier day at camp and spent some time cleaning the van (sand is not all it's cracked up to be) and route planning for the next week following Le Tour.
And so to today, Thursday. Another lovely day although a fairly brisk breeze at times (perfect in many ways). We had our last ride this morning, another coast to coast, this time headed to Loix. This took us along the sea wall for most of the journey (wind not quite such a good companion then!) and to a small harbour again with signs of salt production.
Back at camp we've been busy reloading the bikes and getting more washing done. Tomorrow we head back inland and towards the first couple of stages on Le Tour. We also hook up with Steve and Jules from our riding gang which will be great.
Of course this all means more off grid, so the next blog will come once we are hooked back up to the ether, probably next weekend - by which time England may or may not be World Cup winners!
Til then, stay safe all
J&J x
Posted by One streetaway 08:18 Archived in France Tagged wine de cycling ile travelling re westfalia